Journal Highlight: The analysis of scalp irritation by coacervates produced in hair shampoo via FTIR with focal plane array detector, X-ray photoelectron microscopy and HaCaT cells

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  • Published: Apr 3, 2017
  • Author: spectroscopyNOW
  • Channels: Infrared Spectroscopy
thumbnail image: Journal Highlight: The analysis of scalp irritation by coacervates produced in hair shampoo via FTIR with focal plane array detector, X-ray photoelectron microscopy and HaCaT cells

A coacervate that forms on the scalp from hair washing products has been characterised as a cationic polymer containing an anionic surfactant using FTIR-FPA and X-ray photoelectron microscopy.

The analysis of scalp irritation by coacervates produced in hair shampoo via FTIR with focal plane array detector, X-ray photoelectron microscopy and HaCaT cells

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017, 39, 149-155
I. K. Jung, S. C. Park, S. H. Kim, J. H. Kim, N. R. Cha, W. R. Bae, H. N. Kim, S. A. Cho, J. W. Yoo, B. M. Kim and J. H. Lee

Abstract: Coacervates are inevitably formed on scalp on using hair washing products. Our goal was to analyse the coacervates in detail to identify the part responsible for scalp stimulation. Shampoo that increases coacervate formation was applied to in vitro skin and was washed. The residue was then analysed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy–focal plane array (FTIR-FPA) and X-ray photoelectron microscopy (XPS). And HaCaT cells were used for irritant test of coacervate. Through this research, it was confirmed that the coacervate was a macromolecule structurally similar to a cationic polymer and contains an anionic surfactant. Its anionic surfactant was structurally semi-stable so that it released onto scalp when it absorbs moisture. Coacervate releases sulphate bonding into the matrix when it is exposed to water. Thus, the scalp stimulation would be expected.

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