Testing times for beta-carotene and relatives: Raman clues to cosmeceuticals

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  • Published: Apr 1, 2011
  • Author: David Bradley
  • Channels: Raman
thumbnail image: Testing times for beta-carotene and relatives: Raman clues to cosmeceuticals

Caretonoids below the skin

While cosmetic manufacturers tend to avoid producing actual medical effects in skin for fear of their products being subsumed into the pharmaceutical regulatory process, there is a need to understand how so-called "cosmeceuticals" might affect the aging process in skin. Resonance Raman spectroscopy has recently emerged as a useful technique for the non-invasive investigation of the interaction of carotenoid antioxidants with free radicals in the skin.

A review of the state of the art of carotenoid research in the field of cosmeceuticals was published in the March issue of Experimental Dermatology by a team at the Center of Experimental and Cutaneous Physiology (CCP), Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany. Juergen Lademann, Martina C. Meinke, Wolfram Sterry and Maxim E. Darvin explain that various Raman studies on carotenoids as a marker for skin antioxidants have shown how carotenoid concentration in the skin is correlated with the lifestyle of the individual. They point out that a healthy and rich diet packed with fruit and vegetables leads to high levels of carotenoids, which is linked to better skin health.

Conversely, stress factors such as illness, sun exposure, or ultraviolet light, smoking tobacco and alcohol consumption can lower carotenoid concentration leading to premature skin ageing and other effects. The team suggests that the growing body of work could lead to Raman being used widely in the development of anti-ageing strategies and in medical diagnostics and therapy control for cancer treatment.

Free radical production is an entirely normal part of metabolism, they are produced as essential signalling molecules for the cell and as agents of microbial mass destruction for killing invading bacteria and viruses. However, they are also produced by the action of various stressors and in these situations, such as following exposure of the skin to UV light, whether artificially produced or from the sun, they must be mopped up by antioxidants before they cause damage at the molecular and cellular level, which can lead to health problems and premature ageing.

Antioxidant networks

Our bodies have antioxidant networks to cope with the barrage of free radicals. Enzymes are key components of the antioxidant networks as are numerous small molecule antioxidant vitamins (A, C, E and D), as well as carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene and lutein); the small molecules are generally obtained from our food, plant extracts and infusions such as green tea and even alcoholic beverages, such as red wine. The carotenoids are remarkable in that they can reduce free radicals over several reaction cycles before they themselves are destroyed, lycopene, the red pigment in tomatoes and other foods has the highest antioxidant activity of this group of compounds.

 



The views represented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.

Credit: David Bradley While cosmetic manufacturers tend to avoid producing actual medical effects in skin for fear of their products being subsumed into the pharmaceutical regulatory process, there is a need to understand how so-called
Fresh fruit and vegetables are rich in antioxidants

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